Ready to Travel Again? – Here is a New Way

•June 21, 2021 • 4 Comments

“Jobs fill your pockets, adventures fill your soul”

I had forgotten just how much you, dear readers love to travel. I shouldn’t have. Travelling is after all how I met ninety percent of you.

The world has been a tricky place to explore over the past 16 months or so, but thankfully there are signs now that it may soon be possible to resume where we all were halted in our tracks (I am still ‘stuck’ on 99 countries visited).

One of these signs is my ‘inbox’ – slowly gathering dust over the past year – suddenly springing to life again. ‘Thomas, we are planning a trip to’…, ‘Thomas, friends of ours want to visit’…, ‘Thomas, we’ve never met, but…’ Three or four messages per week at least, all different, but all ending ‘can you help?’

Indeed adventures do fill my soul and I genuinely love planning trips, whether for myself or others. Putting together an itinerary over a long breakfast (usually when I do my best work) is my favourite way to start the day – I am instantly transported to that little terrace restaurant in Minerve, the Japanese room of my favourite Paris hotel or Mini Hollywood, dreaming about being Lee Van Cleef.

But, I can’t keep up, or rather, I can but no longer totally for free. I have my little Akash to look after. Jobs do indeed fill my pockets, and on behalf of my fellow guides, I can tell you, that Covid has emptied them for most of us. I originally started the Tour Guide tips section (look right on this page) of 2CoT to help defer this ‘demand’ for advice. However, it is not the same and I want to do better so…

Welcome to 2nd Cup of Tea Travel (Please click to go to my new standalone website)

I don’t think anything like this exists. It’s very simple: you email me your travel dreams/plans/wishes – I get back to you with a few more questions – then following your answers – I will send you my suggestions/itinerary FOR FREE. You, your friends, boss, colleagues, cousin, then pop off on vacation and IF, and ONLY if, my suggestions were worth it, you send a tip – at your discretion – when you return. Clever? Well, I am crossing fingers…

Tour Guides – or rather our knowledge – has a funny sort of limbo role when it comes to value. I don’t know anyone who would say, ‘my friend is as dentist, he’ll fix your crown for free’ or ‘my pal is a lawyer, he’ll sort your divorce and not charge’. However, for some reason, almost everyone says – ‘my friend is a guide – he’s bound to know all the best places in France, email him’.

This is knowledge accumulated over years and years of trial and error and in these days of injections, no one has injected all our languages into our brains. Many friends have suggested that I charge up front for this, but there are three reasons I don’t want to:

  • I want travel to be accessible to as many people as possible – we all have different budgets. I am equally happy to help two 18 year old backpackers (I was one many moons ago) as the boss of Boston Whaler – they can afford to pay differently
  • I love doing this and I want to help as many people as possible, so I prefer to keep ‘costs’ to a minimum
  • There are so many poor agencies out there, that above all, do not care. It’s all about the money. In general people should be entitled to be happy with anything they buy in life. By asking for a tip/donation ONLY if you are happy, well it seems to me, 2CoT Travel guests have nothing to lose

So, let’s see if this works ladies and gentlemen. Please do refer anyone you know – if you trust me – to 2CoT Travel. If I can’t help (remember there are still 96 countries I have NOT been to) I will let you know, but if I can, well I think I will truly make your vacation special. Of course, I can also make bookings if languages are a barrier and double of course I can still be hired as a guide to come along, but you will appreciate, these things I charge for. Finally, let me wish you ALL – happy travels, whomever you get to help you, please do remember:

“Travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer”

Briançon Old Town – A Guided Visit (Part 3)

•May 23, 2021 • 4 Comments

Your guided stroll through the old town of Briançon with Darren and myself concludes in this final episode.

In Part 3 – no guided visit is complete without a visit to at least one church (and this is a good’un), learn what exactly it was Vauban invented and what made it so special and finally, Darren and I plan our next trip; where to next?

Thank you ladies and gentlemen for following this far and watching all the way through until the end. Well, neither Spielberg nor the Cohen brothers, nor PBS nor even the BBC have called – so for me, it is back to the day job. There is no doubt travelling is better in person and the net is now filled with an increasingly large number of these ‘virtual visits’. It is just not the same when you can’t hear the river below the bridge, taste the cheese, or sip the wine in person; I get that. Maybe the most I can hope with these videos, is to inspire you to get back on the road as soon as conditions permit.

PLEASE SHARE WITH ANYONE YOU THINK MIGHT BE INTERESTED IN WATCHING.

Anyway, take a final 8 minute break out of your day, sit back and press PLAY.

Thank you so much those who have watched all three episode and especially to all who pressed ‘like’ or took the time to send a comment – your kind words do mean a great deal.

Tips for optimum viewing:

  1. Press the little cog (down on the right) and pick the highest number your internet speed allows.
  2. Then press the perforated square (further right) and watch on full screen.

Happy Viewing – hope you enjoy…

Briançon Old Town – A Guided Visit (Part 2)

•May 22, 2021 • 6 Comments

Continue your trip through the old town of Briançon with Darren and myself.

In Part 2, while it is time for a quintessential French lunch, you will discover; what is in Darren’s bag, learn more about Vauban, just how did Charles de Batz de Castelmore, better known as d’Artagnan die and, whatever you do, always avoid living in the shade.

The ingredients to this film were inspired by me as much younger guide once giving tours of Vauban’s château in Burgundy, then years later ending up living in Briançon itself (In The Shadow of Genius – Living Underneath Vauban) and now finding myself back in the area. Add to a dose of 2020/21 and both Darren and I having some time on our hands, we thought; ‘why not make a short film?’ So we did…

A few years ago I had the idea to create a sort of TV series for the 150th year anniversary of the publication of the fabulous; The Innocents Abroad, by Mark Twain. Following in the footsteps of that famous cruise. I got so far as pitching it to a producer, who – in a kinder manner than it sounds – told me; ‘the trouble is – you are nobody‘. What he meant is, I am not famous, not a celebrity. It has always frustrated me that so often on TV people travelling and showing us the world are celebrities from all sorts of other fields – football, acting, music – anything but actual tour guiding it seems. Granted some are good, but many are not. My grudge has always been that just because I am – shall we say, a decent? tour guide – I am not granted a cameo on the left wing for Manchester Utd. So why should some footballer be chosen over me (or my colleagues) to be your TV travel guides? How about having someone that actually knows their field instead? See my point?

Anyway, rant over so take another 8 minute break out of your day, sit back and press PLAY.

I hope to see you all back for the concluding Part 3, tomorrow (same place, roughly same time).

Tips for optimum viewing:

  1. Press the little cog (down on the right) and pick the highest number your internet speed allows.
  2. Then press the perforated square (further right) and watch on full screen.

Happy Viewing – hope you enjoy…

Briançon Old Town – A Guided Visit (Part 1)

•May 21, 2021 • 6 Comments

Here is something a little bit different for you; part one of a three part mini series – Discovering Briançon Old Town – released over the next three evenings.

Join local film maker and producer, Darren Turner and myself as we stroll through the old town of Briançon, high in the French Alps on a beautiful day in April. In Part 1 dodge ‘murder holes’, be introduced to the genius that is Vauban, cross the scary – yet stunning – Devil’s Bridge and ‘gargle’ down the main street as we unravelled the fascinating history of this, Europe’s highest, town.

For the many of you that come to this site as you have travelled with me somewhere in the world, this is a little flashback to the past, or a glimpse even of the hopefully near future. For all of you, hopefully and enjoyable ‘trip’ to Briançon. For your viewing pleasure, we have cut this film into three, easy, bite-sized parts (so you don’t have to put up with me for a full half hour).

Many of you have over the years been kind enough to say I ought to be on TV – well, this is a chance for you to eat your words, or, in the event that after watching, you stand by that, share this with anyone looking for a TV guide to Europe and beyond. Have hat, will travel…

Anyway, without more fuss, take an 8 minute break out of your day, sit back and press PLAY.

I hope to see you all back for Part 2, tomorrow (same place, roughly same time).

Tips for optimum viewing:

  1. Press the little cog (down on the right) and pick the highest number your internet speed allows.
  2. Then press the perforated square (further right) and watch on full screen.

Happy Viewing – hope you enjoy…

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A Year of Visits to Aran-Akash

•May 12, 2021 • 18 Comments

“Fathering is not something perfect men do, but something that perfects the man” – Frank Pittman

And that’s a car, and that’s a car, and that’s a car, and….’

One of the favourite things I re-learn every month from my son, is the wonder and sheer improbability of the world he and I share with you all. On my monthly visits, as we walk down the street (usually the same one) over and again in Catalan suburbia where he lives, there is nothing more fascinating it would appear than noticing – and crucially pointing out – cars.

That’s a car, and that’s a car‘, he says, time and again as we walk along the pavement. Sometimes in front of one, though I am not sure why that particular one, he will stop, point to the next parked vehicle and ask, ‘what’s that Papa Thomas?‘ ‘That’s a car‘, I tell him (sometimes adding the name of the colour for variety). ‘Si, si,’ he mutters and we walk on towards new, yet unexplored, stationary vehicles.

Continue reading ‘A Year of Visits to Aran-Akash’

The Flight of The Eagle – Meeting Napoleon

•March 21, 2021 • 13 Comments

My father came and got us from the stable; “Napoleon is in La Mure. The cows can wait until the Emperor has gone.” – Seraphique Troussier, March 1815

A little over a year ago, Google sent, for the first time (to me at least), something called ‘Your Timeline‘. It was an image with a wee map of the world showing all the countries I had visited (was it for that month, or that year?) Below was a number, representing the percentage of the world that constitutes. I don’t recall the details, but as this arrived in February 2020 – one month B.C (Before Covid) – I remember looking at it and thinking; ‘The UK, Spain, Nepal, Bhutan, Israel and Qatar, ok not bad for just two months into the year. This will be fun to post at the end of the year; show off a little how much I always travel‘.

Well, here we are thirteen months A.C (After Covid – which should really be ‘D-uring’ C of course) and the last several of these reminders – they now seem to arrive monthly – have mostly featured just two comparatively forlorn looking pins; Vaujany and Barcelona.

Occasionally, it has rather optimistically, included a third pin somewhere like, Narbonne, Perpignan or Montpellier. In the classic travellers debate; can one count as having been to, a country where all one has visited is the airport? Google, with a nudge from Corona, is now responding in the affirmative – for cities and train stations at least. So, I gaze from the window of my train each month, as it sits, inevitably delayed, at a platform of one or other of these Southern French destinations. Scant comfort drawn from the fact that if we sit for more than five minutes, with luck, Google will get excited and award me with a pin for this.

Continue reading ‘The Flight of The Eagle – Meeting Napoleon’

Happiness is a Place – Travel with 2nd Cup of Tea in 2021…

•February 7, 2021 • 7 Comments

Got 2 minutes? It’s 2021 so probably, like me, you do. Ok, then just press play below. I will ‘see’ you in the text afterwards…

Looks good? Yes, yes and yes are the answers you might now be looking for.

Yes, this really does exist, yes you really can visit and yes I have created my own trip – Bhutan: Happiness is a Place – for 2021 and will be your Tour Guide in November (was that a fourth yes?) If ever there is a place that lives up to the over-used ‘once in a lifetime‘ – then Bhutan is it. Promise.

All I am asking at this stage, is are you interested? If so…

How can you join me? Please read on…

Continue reading ‘Happiness is a Place – Travel with 2nd Cup of Tea in 2021…’

(My) Immigrant Song

•August 9, 2020 • 5 Comments

The regular (?) arrival of such vessels on our South coast has since been picked up by the BBC, increasingly (with a sadly decreasing number of exceptions) the poodle of the current Government (again a big word to use to describe our current leaders). So now we officially have BBC headlines such at ‘Home Office seeks military help over migrant crossings’. For the publisher of the image, himself a descendant of immigrants, and with two sons who also have German passports, in order to avoid the Brexit disaster their father helped orchestrate, it is once more mission accomplished, with the National Broadcaster yet again strengthening the platform of someone who long since should have been rendered irrelevant.

For the rest of the country, it is distraction from what is becoming obvious to all but the most biased of onlookers, is the appalling handling by the same Government of the current crisis. A blatant, ‘look over here at these dozen people illegally landing on our shores’ and by definition – as we seem to have lost the capacity for vision in more than one direction – ‘not over there, where 65 people died from Corona related symptoms the very same day’.

For the same individuals who have done little but tout the return to the good old days of ‘Great’ Britain and how are stronger alone, etc etc, the potential destructive power of a dozen individuals to such a mighty nation, does seem almost incredible ‘invasion?’. What would they have posted on Twitter had Operation Sea Lion succeeded and the German 6th, 9th and 16th army group had landed. Where do you go from ‘invasion’?

It is in the very same week as all this, that I once again pack all my belongings and on this occasion, spend three days taking nine buses, one plane, one long car ride and two trains, to begin a new life as an immigrant back in my spiritual home of the Oisans (French Alps). This is my privilege. I am (still), much to the disdain of this same ‘politician’ (though not, it would appear, his sons) and his Union Jack flag waving gang, an EU citizen. Moving freely between, working and living in 27 countries is in fact not only my privilege, it is also my right. However, it is most certainly not a colourblind privilege, in keeping with the Zeitgheist, I am all too aware it sadly it is also a white one. Of course if I were a black British citizen I would legally have the very same right, but things would probably play out differently.

When I moved to Barcelona a couple of years ago, in interviewing for flats, my foreign sounding name on the application, was sometimes met with scepticism, however when it became clear to potential landlords I was a mix of Danish and English – countries on the ‘good list’, the rich, Western, privileged list (that word again), any reluctance instantly vanished. In the lottery that is the ‘selection’ of ones place of birth, I fully admit to have rolled a six, hit the jackpot. Not a single door has ever been shut to me due to my birth certificate, nationality or skin colour. I have lived and worked (for at least three months) in eight countries I think, and in my former job as Tour Guide, visited more than one hundred.

Now, as circumstances have dictated, this being the shitshow that is 2020, I find myself once more an immigrant on the move (ok, a legal one admittedly). I am travelling to a small French village to take not one, but two jobs. Two jobs that could potentially have been done by a Frenchman (or woman). Yet no one will bat an eyelid. In fact, knowing Vaujany and the people there, I will be greeted with open arms ‘Ah Thomaaaa, de retour!‘ (you are back). So, sure they know me, that’s not fair you say. And yes, I am not landing at dawn in a dinghy, rather hiking up a big mountain in the afternoon, in plain sight. But the reason they know me is that for seven past winters and five past summers I did live there, and I was taking potentially French jobs away – but at the same time making great French friends for life. However, the day I first stepped out of a white van? No one knew me that day.

Believe it or not, I didn’t and still don’t really intend for this to be political, nor even too much of a rant (well, perhaps a little bit the latter). However there is one point I really want to make. After seeing said poor dozen or so souls captured on Twitter scampering off the beach, but not sadly off our devices, I thought to read a few of the comments people had posted below the photo. I am not going to gratify them by repeating them here (as many were inevitably in support of our photographing political friend), but a common theme were lamentations and condemnations of the irresponsible nature of people – parents – taking their children on these journeys, or even making them in the first place, motivated by jobs and money. You know, the ‘stay at home’ or ‘if they loved their kids, they wouldn’t risk it’ brigade.

It’s also certainly not my intention to get into a debate over the rights and wrongs of illegal (or legal for that matter) immigration. Anyone who knows me, will have a fair idea of my views anyway. But, what really makes me angry is exactly this genre of comments. I know I have said before that things changed when my partner at the time became pregnant with our son. But that’s because they do, things do change. Anyone who is a parent and reading this knows that (others can probably imagine it). I have met and volunteered with immigrants, legal and not, in various parts of the world and I have yet to meet a single one, who truly wanted to leave home with all that that entails. I once met a young Afghan man in a refugee centre in Rome. In front of a huge wall map, he showed me his thousand mile journey, filling in where he had slept in trucks, containers, stowed away in trains or sneaked accross borders at night. The Taliban had visisted his village the day before, given him one day to pack and were intending to pick him up the next day as he could speak some English and they needed an interpreter. When night fell, he said goodbye to his family and slipped away. His intended destination, he told me here in Rome; Finland – as he had a postcard from there showing vast forests. He wanted to see those. There was no mention of money. His was only one story, one immigrant song, but no such decision is ever taken lightly.

Myself, I don’t especially want to leave Spain, now my home and the same country where Akash is, making it harder to see him, to feel closer to him. Had he not existed, I might have been able to sit quietly in my village, riding out the storm, eating donated homegrown vegetables, hoping for tourists to come back. But homegrown vegetables and no tours do not pay for his clothes, his kindergarden, his life and his future. Any loving parent who separates from his or her children, does so only when up against it. Also, who among us doesn’t strive to better our lives or those of our kids? In America people move distances far greater than between Syria and Italy for example for a new job, without even leaving their country. Everyone accepts that.

That is part one of my rant. No one moves countries with the aim of stealing anyone’s job. Part two, no one, but truly no one, puts their children into these dinghies (as we see daily, more often in the Mediterranean) unless they are truly desperate, fucked even. The very thought of me hypothetically having to ask my ex girlfriend, mother of my child and little Akash to travel in something like such a dinghy in anything more dramatic than a swimming pool, would make me first feel embarrassed and a total failure of a father and secondly, extremely nervous about the outcome. It would, in other words, be a final solution, when all other outcomes have been explored. So stop having a go at parents.

In this same week, it was revealed, though quickly glossed over (as it is apparently not in the spirit of things to question or analyse Government handling of the crisis, in the midst of the crisis) that the very people who lead us and often stir up our ‘reluctance’ shall we say, to help our fellow human beings, farmed out more than £150m to a shadow company owned by two of their chums for the procuration of face masks, a company – that is – not even capable of producing a single face mask. This is just one of an increasingly growing list of such banana republic antics coming out of the UK all too frequently now. Do a spot of cigarette packet maths and for those £150m the UK could keep just over 1000 immigrants on benefit for life! And that is failing to take into account how most become useful members of society, not to mention we are a nation built on immigration. Perhaps our would-be coast guard and immigrant policeman, would be better off taking his camera to meetings where these contracts are ‘awarded’ and post that on Twitter. It would save the UK taxpayer a pound or two certainly.

I want to end with a little anecdote, fresh in my mind from last night. I had started writing this during the journey yesterday and planned to publish it upon landing in Bordeaux airport (I wonder why I felt such urgency?) However after 17 hours of travel, I was beat and decided to go straight to my hotel, four stops away on the blue line one. It was close to midnight and not immediately obvious from where the bus left. I emerged from the Terminal and saw Ligne 1 and red rear lights of the bus about two hundred yards to my right. Running, I just made it onboard. One ticket please, I told the driver, remembering my ‘bonsoir‘. Not possible came the reply, accompanied by a pointing finger towards a machine further down the platform. Do I have time? You have 30 seconds, he said. Obviously not enough to get halfway through the sea of discount offers available on any French ticket machine before you even get to pay (if you know, you know), I was faced with little choice and rather despondently turned to get off the bus. As I turned to do so, a very large black lady on the seat behind the driver, said; it gives no change, seeing my clasped (only method of payment) €10 note (the cost I think was €1,30). My heart sank further. The driver simply looked at me, his job done. Over to me, my decision. This was the last bus before the line closed for the night. Pause… ‘Here, I will stamp my ticket twice’ said the lady, got up and did just that.

I could have given her my note, though I am sure she would not have accepted it. I rummaged around in my wallet, eventually finding rather bizarrely five French postage stamps and a twenty cent piece and offered her those. She laughed. C’est bon, she said and waved them away. As I got off ten minutes later, once more helped by the same lady who worked nearby and pointed out the correct stop to me, the driver turned to me – ‘You were lucky’, he said.

He was right, I was, and I still am.

Freshly landed on the shores of France, there was no racist, xenophobic, former politician with nothing but his own self centered, vicious agenda, meeting and greeting me with a camera as I walked through customs. I also very doubt my photo will be in Le Monde tomorrow or on France 24 TV news.

We all have our immigrant songs. And in times of trouble, be it war, disease, economic hardship, whatever makes us up and move, what follows is our own personal song. In their ‘Immigrant Song’, one of my favourite groups, Led Zeppelin puts it this;

So now you’d better stop and rebuild all your ruins
For peace and trust can win the day despite of all your losing

My, white European, greeting in France consisted of a lovely black lady who with her own peace and trust, just helped out a fellow human being. And that is the first verse of my personal immigrant song…

You Don’t Remember Me, But Happy Birthday…

•March 1, 2020 • 5 Comments

You don’t remember me, but I have never forgotten you.

It’s two years since you came into my life. The first I knew was a photo, sent from your mother to my phone. And I knew you existed. It was three months before we finally met, but thanks to technology I felt I knew you already.

I’ll never forget waiting by the elevator, the one at the top of Las Ramblas on the left. I had bought and was wearing a yellow t-shirt for the occasion, something bright. I thought a bright colour might be good for babies. First I saw the top of your mother’s head as the glass elevator brought you both up, then your pram and eventually your little face – you were asleep.

You don’t remember me, but you have left footprints on my heart.

I wondered how I’d feel, I was in love with your mother, but how might one feel about a child with whom one shares no blood? People adopt all the time, there are step dads, mums, brothers and sisters. I had never given much thought to such relationships.

Over the next weeks and months as we became friends, you grew to become the most important thing in my life. Flesh, blood, genes, irrelevant. All that mattered was love. I remember feeling as nervous as a father when you started kindergarden, so proud when you could put your head under water at swimming class, worried when you were sick and happy when you ate the lunch I’d make you.

You don’t remember me, but we were friends.

I admit, I was not great, perhaps not natural father material. I would report to your mother how many times you had cried during the day, when she returned from work. And when that gradually and more often, became zero, I don’t recall feeling more proud of anything before, or since.

You were the only person I think ever to enjoy my guitar playing (though I appreciate as you would grow and develop a taste, that might not have lasted). When the guitar I had just bought for you fell off the wall and broke, and I could not afford another, I was devastated.

You don’t remember me, but I was your bath buddy.

Ahh bath time. Along with my playing guitar, you are also the only person ever to smile and try to sing along to my singing. How many times did we play and sing Octopus’s Garden? I will never forget the words.

My favourite photo of you is from the house we all too briefly shared. I am on the couch and you are sitting amidst all your coloured balls on the soft letters you had. I am holding a rabbit you loved, looking down at you. With your huge eyes and mouth wide open you look up at me, listening, learning, or maybe thinking; ‘who is this crazy person?’

And today you turn two. I think you are getting a bicycle. I would have loved to see your face. But I have not seen you for many months. And I miss you. It’s hard to accept that ones dreams end, that one is powerless to do anything – that following my heart, means encountering doors that are shut.

But I will always be grateful for every moment we shared. I am very fortunate that throughout our brief time together, I knew and really felt how lucky I was each and every single day; I realised it at the time.

You don’t remember me, but I love you.

Happy Birthday little astronaut… maybe you remember this:

 
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