The Last Moorish Princess of Andalusia…

•January 3, 2015 • 7 Comments

High above the once Moorish and still whitewashed villages of Los Guajares on a remote pass that straddles the ancient high road to Granada there sit two separate old structures facing each other across a road. Both are falling into disrepair and signs warn of danger and not to enter. Locals need no such warning as they already steer clear of the ruins, the few four by fours that occasionally take this road, passing quickly, their drivers without desire to stop. You see, on certain nights it is said light can be seen pouring from the turret of the one windowless structure, accompanied by haunting sounds from deep within its belly. No one ventures here at night.

The Red Palace...

The Red Palace…

I find myself up here one day collecting wood for the fireplace, when I turn the last bend in the road and at the time unbeknown to me, come across the palace of the last Moorish Princess of Andalusia. This is her story…

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You Are All Invited… Guajar Alto, Andalusia

•November 22, 2014 • 48 Comments

…To my new home. Yes home, house, dwelling, abode, crib even. As of yesterday around 11.23 a.m I am no longer ‘homeless’ (apologies to parents as this was technically never true). My suitcase and backpack are unpacked and for 8 weeks (apart from a short trip back to England) I will be in only one place – MY place.

THE Moment... Entering Number 44

THE Moment… Entering Number 44

Herman Hesse said; one never reaches home, but where friendly paths intersect the whole world looks like home for a time. I have certainly taken advantage of many a friendly path over the past 15 years, my time working as a guide. I’m so often told I ‘have the best life’ – best JOB I often try to correct my judges.

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Everyone Has The Right to Love and Take Care of The Cat – Bona of Pisa and Ben Lead me to Užupis

•June 9, 2014 • 6 Comments

‘Thank you, thank you God of Tour Guides’… Many a time in my career I have uttered that silent prayer when disaster has been avoided by what on each heart-stoping occasion really feels like divine intervention. I should just put ‘disaster’ into perspective; this is travelling we are talking about- not life and death. However, there are times when faced with a double booked restaurant and the manager ‘seeing if he can fit you in’, your private coach totally vanishing with all luggage as well as our picnic onboard by a lonely Baltic beach, suddenly realising you’ve might have got your Avenue and Boulevard Carnot in Paris mixed up and are approaching the address you hope to this hitherto nameless deity really is the site of the museum you need…

Close to The Right Side...

Close to The Right Side…

When that happens, and expectant eyes turn to you, you are all too aware of the buck being about to stop right at yours truly. This morning our Guide Protector came to the rescue, to the extent that it prompted me for the first time in 14 years, to actually check whether there really is such a divine being… Saint Bona of Pisa, this piece is
in your honour. Thank you.
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Ventimiglia in 12 Photos… A Reason to Stay

•May 1, 2014 • 9 Comments

The traveler sees what he sees. The tourist sees what he has come to see.”
– G.K Chesterton

The train stops just short of the border. This is the last chance to remain in Italy and so I disembark. Only the briefest of journeys ahead separates me from France, the Cote d’Azur and Nice, my eventual destination. Nice is the town where ‘tourism’ began. Already at the end of the 19th Century the coming of the iron horse to the Riviera lead some to lament how ‘tourists’ were now taking over from ‘travellers’ and with them changing the landscape dramatically. The distinction was one of time. It was now possible from Northern Europe to reach the Mediterranean in 30 hours and instead of staying the whole winter, possible to stay just a few weeks.

Arriving By Train...

Arriving By Train…

On my last coming here we spent two nights on the Riviera, two nights. Then the tour left. I have never really pondered the meaning of my job title; ‘tour’ manager, implicitly from ‘tourism’. I am not a ‘travel’ manager or even a ‘travel guide’ which suggests a book, not a human.
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A Time of Padlocks – Bridging The Gap Between Romance and History

•April 2, 2014 • 9 Comments

We leave something of ourselves behind when we leave a place, we stay there, even though we go away. And there are things in us that we can find again only by going back there.” ― Pascal Mercier, Night Train to Lisbon

I stepped onto the Pont de l’Archevêché in Paris a mere week ago with total and utter disdain for padlocks.

Well, let me qualify that, I have nothing against them as a practical means of securing ones belongings cheaply and conveniently when backpacking. However when it comes to scribbling or engraving ones initials on them, attaching them to seemingly any convenient bridge throughout Europe, locking them by key, kissing and throwing said key into (and in doing so I might add; polluting) whichever river happens to flow below, who’s name I am convinced most amorous couples above are ignorant of, declaring never ending love and wandering off convinced (surely no one is?) this act will secure forever that declaration, then I am afraid, padlocks have come to symbolise all that I find anti-romantic about love.

But then, on this ‘lovers’ bridge, something magical that started with a photo and took me on a journey to Serbia of the 20th Century happened…

'Love in Chains is Not Love'

‘Love in Chains is Not Love’

This time (like George and Natalia) I was to meet Nada and Relja. This is how we became acquainted…

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Cuba – My Story and What You Would Have Seen Had You Come…

•February 9, 2014 • 14 Comments

It’s not easy… time to start inventing – Cuban Proverb

… And this is what this ‘article’ is – an ‘invention’. A jumble of thoughts, images and ideas that popped into my head and camera over nearly three weeks spent in Cuba in January and February of 2014. For Cuba is perhaps the most ‘not easy’ to describe country I have ever visited. Therefore, I am going to rely on my pictures to tell their story. As I am acutely aware my words would not do justice to this country, so indeed will many of my photos fail, however as American photographer and environmentalist Ansel Adams put it; “Sometimes I arrive just when God’s ready to have somone click the shutter.” Capturing images of this rapidly changing corner of the Earth is more interesting and challenging an experience than I have had in a long time.

(All photos are mine and all enlarge if you click on them)

Classic Malecon, Havana

Classic Malecon, Havana

In fact how do you begin to describe this country? This amazing place where the man in the street earns an average of 17 dollars per month, yet where you are never out of earshot of music, out of sight of immaculately turned out, beautiful people and never far from the receiving end of a smile.

New worlds need to be lived before being explained – Alejo Carpentier

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Dias Magnificos – Thank You La Thuile…

•January 10, 2014 • 4 Comments

“What you’ve done becomes the judge of what you’re going to do – especially in other people’s minds. When you’re traveling, you are what you are right there and then. People don’t have your past to hold against you. No yesterdays on the road.” ~ William Least Heat Moon

Desperado, why don’t you come to your senses?
You been out ridin’ fences for so long now

In early November of last year (2013) an Englishman dressed in green Wellington boots arrived in La Thuile, Valle d’Aosta, Italy. It was his chosen destination largely because it is little more than a four hour drive from Florence, and this was a journey he hoped still to make, though in the end it ended up remaining untravelled.

La Thuile...

La Thuile…

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You Don’t Have to be Mad to Work Here… The ‘Gattisti’ of La Thuile, Italy

•January 9, 2014 • 2 Comments

My life is quite literally suspended from a cable no thicker than my finger. What feels like it could well at any second become my ten tonne red metal coffin, is grappled to a hook, itself seemingly no more impressive than one to which one might tie a horse. I just watched Lauro scramble up into his seat to my left and turn the ignition. We begin to roll, and the cable gradually tightens and stretches off into the night as we inch our way towards total darkness. It feels like we are in a battle with gravity, in which there can be only one winner.

Life Suspended...

Life Suspended…

Lauro Martinet, 47 is what is known as a ‘gattista’, a piste basher driver in the resort of La Thuile, in Italy’s Valle d’Aosta. In these parts they refer to these producers of beautifully groomed corduroy as ‘gatti’, or cats.

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Being a Tour Guide – Why I Do What I Do…

•December 18, 2013 • 4 Comments

I love my job, yes I know I repeat myself, but it is a fact. However as I have revealed on several occasions here too; it comes at a price. There are many sacrifices that go along with being homeless and seeing friends once a year. There are moments when I question whether it is all worth it…

Have I Made The Right Choice?

Have I Made The Right Choice?

Then, out of the blue, something like this happens…

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Keep Going Number 97…

•December 10, 2013 • Leave a Comment

Today someone who deserved a lot better, had a bad day. This was on top of a bad week and indeed a very tough year.

You Know Who You Are...

You Know Who You Are…

This short post, a little different from the others, is dedicated to her…

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